Tu e o teu mecanico nao estao a ver as coisas pelo prisma correcto.
Pensa assim:
As capas de origem estao concebidas para 225 cv e 200 e muitos de binario.. Para durar 200, 300 mil km ou mais dependendo da conducao, da manutencao.
Claro que ha uma margem de manobra mas.. Achas que as capas originais aguentam quantos kms com 400 cv e 400 e tal newtons de binario?
Vão durar muito menos.
Se em conpetição as capas reforcadas duram 3, 5, 7 horas em esforco máximo, quanto achas que umas originais iriam durar?
É claro que tu nao vais andar com o teu carro em condicoes extremas, 1 hora ou mais sempre perto do redline, mas o tempo de vida vai ser sempre menor.
Se em competicao as capas reforcadas fossem piores que as originais, porque nao usariam as originais? E estamos a falar de mecanicos altamente qualificados, muitas vezes engenheiros que sabem o que estao a fazer.
Uma capa de biela com desgaste prematuro é meio caminho andado para uma biela abrir uma janela no bloco.
Quando se abre um motor para esses patamares, nao se pode facilitar.
Eu compreendo perfeitamente o que dizes e na altura foi mais uma coisa em que pensar ... no entanto olha aqui alguns comentários sobre isto noutros forums, que fui pesquisar no google muito rapidamente por "oem vs race bearings"
"Unless you are building a race motor that the oil will be changed in every weekend or so, you should be using OEM honda bearings. The race bearings are hardened meaning that if anywhere in your 3000 or 4000mile oil change interval, a piece of debris gets into your oil, and makes it to the bearing, it will score the crankshaft, not the bearing, which if you haven't figured out by now is not a good thing. Oem honda bearings are intentionally not hardened so the debris will score the bearing, not the crankshaft. Hardened bearings really only belong in race motors with less than ideal rod-stroke ratios reving to 9k or 10k because they can take a lot more abuse."
"oem they will last more, acl need to check/replace every 20-30k, measure and double check when assembly !"
"Its my understanding, (subject to new information) performace bearings cause a crank to wear faster. it has nothing to do with the hardness of the bearing material. Performance bearings have no embedability layer. The stock type bearings do and it allows any debris in the oil to be embeded in the soft surface layer of the bearing. This mainly comes into play on the first startup when the engine is freshly built. Thats my guess why stock bottom ends look nicer than bottom ends with performance bearings in many cases. Preformance bottom ends may get beat on harder in many cases too."
"Professional race teams around the world, from Nascrap, NHRA Prostock, JGTC, and many others have custom crank/rod sets made just to use the OEM Honda GSR bearing shells. They provide not only optimal metalurgy and the needed softness to be durable, but also are made with the precision and size range to allow oil clearences to be setup correctly.
Honda builders seem to be the only people silly enough to bypass the chance to use OEM Honda bearings, and they don't even need to have custom cranks/rods made to take advantage of them.
Also, don't put any sort of hard coating on the surface of a bearing... The surface being soft is critical to proper function.
There is a reason we use specially designed and applied layers of extremely soft metals to make the bearings surface rather than running a carbide insert or some nonsense. My $0.02"
Eu lembro-me de andar a ler sobre isto também para decidir o que usar e sinceramente a opção não foi para facilitar nem para poupar porque como deves saber o preço deve diferir em 20 euros, e secalhar OEM até é mais caro.
Portanto, acho que temos aqui um grande tema para debater no fórum...